Cozy, Hectic, Magical
I will never forget the bizarre sense of unease I felt during my first hour in Hanoi. I stepped out of the airport into a fog-covered taxi-bay, lit blue from the multitude of identical Samsung ads displayed on towering screens. I had arranged a pick-up with the hostel I was staying in, and despite the fact that there was a well dressed man holding a sign that said my name, he seemed unsure of the arrangements. After leaving us in the mysterious taxi-bay for close to a half an hour, he loaded my travel-mates and me into an SUV driven by another well-dressed man. About five minutes into our journey the driver pulled over, and the man with the sign jumped out and disappeared. It was close to midnight, we were tired, and the entire experience didn’t feel quite above-board.
All of that changed when we made it to the Old Quarter. After getting lost, circling the winding streets, and eventually making it to the lobby of the backpacker’s hostel, my friends and I breathed a sigh of relief and set out to explore late-night Hanoi. What we discovered completely shattered my preconceived notions – within moments I was absolutely smitten with this city I had been nervous about just moments before.
Cozy:
The Frommer guide on Hanoi opens with “Hanoi would not be Hanoi without its Old Quarter,” and I am inclined to agree. This maze of 700-year-old streets feels unique and eclectic - all at once homey and foreign. The narrow streets are dotted with miniature coffee shops, all peddling the best coffee taste buds can find for a fraction of what Americans pay at Starbucks. Shops selling incredible Northface and Converse knock-offs light up the streets with their brightly colored inventory, and short plastic stools line the streets and offer seating for locals and visitors alike, all enjoying hot-pots and pho. Shops owners are friendly and welcoming, and the overgrown trees dotting the city streets offer a canopy of greenery. Pedestrians and motorbikes share the streets, and even the orchestra of honking horns adds to the charm of this well-preserved and somewhat secluded neighborhood.
Hectic:
Hanoi may feel cozy, but that is not due to the pace of the city. The tiny winding streets of the old quarter are filled with fast moving motorbikes, adhering to their own traffic laws and breaking for pedestrians only when absolutely necessary. At one point I was told that there are more motorbikes than people, and looking around it is not hard to believe. Sidewalks have become parking lots, which means pedestrians are relegated to the street. I was told to walk with confidence and to not break pace, motorists will anticipate your movements and erratic behavior can lead to an accident. My first few forays into the street were nerve-wracking, but within an hour I was perfectly at home amidst the traffic, caught up in the intensity of these enthusiastic people.
Magical:
Maybe it’s the narrow streets and quiet alleyways, maybe it’s the painfully stylish coffee shops and restaurants, or maybe it’s the stunning red bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake – but most of all I think the magic of Hanoi can be attributed to the fact that the charm was so completely unexpected. I had heard mixed reviews of this city, and had adjusted my expectations accordingly. What I found instead was a place so beautiful, friendly, and alluring, that I immediately vowed to return someday and explore the city with in more depth and with more patience. I have gotten an irresistible taste of Hanoi, and I cannot wait until my travels bring me back.